.:Day 3:. July 17
The morning of our 3rd day in Beijing we got up super early and squeezed our way into the subway, headed for the great wall. China has a lot of people (duh, eh) and there were huge lineups to get in and out of the subway!! Finally, we got to the bus station and caught the bus to our next transfer point, where we had to foil the evil karate villains and get on the next, tinier bus. Good thing Iain knew enough mandarin to understand when people were trying to rip us off! The villains, for example, were trying to get us into their little van to drive us to a commercial part of the wall (we wanted a deserted part). They had a very convincing brochure of the wall from the early '90s, with "no bus" written on it in official-looking ballpoint pen. How we weren't swayed by this brilliant ploy, I'll never know. Perhaps it was their appearance that tipped us off. I suck at Boggle. They were right out of a movie. The short fat guy with the cigarette hanging out of his mouth as he spoke, miraculously clinging to his lip, and his lanky, dirt-stached companion. We were expecting Jackie Chan to fly out of a building and save us at any moment. Our saviour came in the form of a young lady who spoke near-perfect English, always a treat when we're in no-white-man's land. We knew we were clearly out of the tourist zone when an old grandmother opened her bus window wider to stick her head out and continue staring at us as her bus drove away.
Anyway, we found the right minibus, and five hours after our journey began, we found ourselves in a charming little town at the foot of the wall (You can see it behind us in the picture). We had a light lunch, and set off for our hike. The plan was to hike on the great wall itself for a good six hours until we reached the next village and stayed there for the night. Well oo la di da. That would have been fancy indeed if we could have managed to actually get onto the wall. Problem was we were in an area where the wall isn't maintained, and is falling apart or has lots of growth on it. We walked around for a while hoping to find a clear way on, but it was all looking pretty dangerous. The good news is the conservation area we were walking in was gorgeous!
An hour or so later, we got tired of going in circles and headed

back to the boat renting place we had seen earlier. Some nice English speaking guys also helped us get directions. Good ol' English speakers saving the day again! We found out that we could actually get ON the wall from the next village, about a two-hour hike away through the forest. So, off we went, into the unknown! There were a few paths to follow, and we didn't pick the right one on our first try. Eventually we found one that seemed right and continued along. We crossed many rivers, and Chris and Iain even got up onto a very precarious chunk of the wall for a bit! After about an hour and a half of walking, Chris stopped dead in his tracks:
C: "Guys...a GOAT. A freaking GOAT?!" *camera whips out* "I've got to get closer for a picture!"
N &
I: "uhh....a goat? duhhh...uhhh...huh?"
G: "BAAaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhh!!!" *RUNS AWAY*
Bigger G: "snort, snort"
C: "A F!%ing BIGHORN! AHHhhhH!" *RUNS*
N: "F$%#ing RUUUUUUUNNnnnnnnn!!!" *RUNS*
I: "Aaaaaaaa!" *RUNS*
C,
N &
I: "wtf?"
N: "What the....DUCKS?! SO MANY DUCKS?!"
I: "Holy crap!"
N: "A PERSON! AHhhhh! What is happening, where are we? Who is that?"

So basically, we stumbled upon a guy living in the middle of the forest with a few goats and a hell of a lot of ducks. He also had lots of barking dogs, one who was all club-footed and huuuuuge. He had bottles of beer cooling in the stream, and was sitting as his little table smoking what looked like an opium pipe. Sketchy much? Thankfully, he was only too happy to point us in the direction of the village, and allow us to walk through his crazy animal hideout unscathed. Phew! The path leading from his place got considerably wider and eventually became a road. We followed it until we met some children fishing in the river, and a crazy old man killed the hell out of a huge snake while Chris attempted to talk to him. We asked the kids if we were on the right track, and

they said yes. Mere moments later, we were in Xian Tun Ji, reading an English sign about how beautiful it was (though we could see that for ourselves). We found someone and began asking her how to get ON to the wall. She sent her son to fetch the only English speaker in the town, and pretty soon we had a group of people gathering around to observe the crazy foreigners who popped out of nowhere! The girl was super nice, and she informed us that the wall wasn't far at all. In fact, she
walked us right up to it! Hiked us right up the mountain in her little sandals!
Finally, the WALL!! We hopped right on and started climbing! It was incredible having it all to ourselves!





We spent a good couple of hours climbing from guard tower to guard tower, and almost slipping to our deaths a few times (hehe, mom). The whole time while staring down the steep mountain, I couldn't help but wonder if
a) the Mongols would
actually try and invade here, and
b) if they got as far up the mountain as this,

would an extra few feet of rock really stop them? But hey, I'm no expert or anything. It just seemed like a ridiculously difficult place to invade, let alone to build a huge wall!
Suddenly, the wall abruptly ended when it hit the side of a mountain. We could see it continuing in the distance, but our portion was done. As it was getting late, we thought we'd head back to the cute friendly village of Xian Tun Ji, where we had spotted a few guesthouses earlier. After almost getting lost again, we finally made our way back
just as it started to rain! We knocked on a random door with a guesthouse sign, and lo and behold, it was the English girl's house! Her family (which included the fishing children!) was in the middle of eating dinner in the courtyard.

They stopped everything and welcomed us into their home, made us tea and set us up in our room. We also had a huge feast prepared for us by the super-cute mother. It was absolutely delicious! The whole family was helping out, we even saw the father kneading the dough for the fresh flatbread we were given! I felt bad for interrupting them in the middle of dinner. They were SO friendly and welcoming! Over to the right, you can see Iain and Chris enjoying our huge feast. It was one of the best meals I've had in China, and boy did we ever earn it with all that hiking! With our bellies full and a nice warm place to sleep out of the rain, we happily settled in for the night.
.:
Day 4:.
July 18thThe sound of a rooster crowing woke me up at 3am, and kept waking me up every 15 minutes or so afterwards. Not just one rooster, oh no. The neighbours' roosters were getting in on the action too, having a jolly little rooster conversation. Did people in the old days actually get up when the cock crowed? 'Cause man,
3AM! When the dog started barking around 8am,

I finally gave up. Chris, Iain and I sat in bed for a while laughing about our crazy day and marveling at how we were awoken by a rooster party deep in rural China.
An hour or so later, we had a delicious breakfast prepared fresh of course. This included peaches that were picked right from the tree! I took a peek in the kitchen and saw the mom making us noodles from scratch. I couldn't believe she was all decked out in a chef's outfit too! The meal was delicious, once again.
After breakfast, our hosts called someone to come pick us up and take us to the nearest town where we could catch a bus back to Beijing. The bus only came to Xian Tun Ji every few days. When the driver arrived, we paid our huge bill for the night. Three people, two delicious meals, super friendly hosts, all for a grand total of about $16 Canadian. Wow. We left them a nice tip, and were on our way!
We were on a super windy (and bumpy) road in the mountains. I thought my teeth would rattle right out of my head! The scenery was beautiful though, and we were still so cheery from our amazing experience. We got on a mini bus headed for Beijing, and settled in for the ride. It was playing the most horrendous Chinese comedy show thing I could ever imagine. It was LOUD. The woman's voice was piercing a hole in my brain, and Iain and Chris just laughed. HOW did it not bug them? I swear it was my kryptonite, that damn sound. I was actually relieved when the bus broke down, because I no longer had to listen to that screeching. :P We sat on the broken down bus for a while, but promptly abandoned ship when another bus drove up a while later. We had places to go and things to see! No time for dilly-dallying!
Back in Beijing, we visited the Lama temple and got ready to take the overnight train to Ping Yao, our next Chinese destination. Stay tuned for the next post, days 4 and 5: Ping Yao!!